My Saddle is Adjustable - I Shouldn't Need a Saddle Fitter

Over the last few years adjustable saddles have really come of age and a large percentage of saddles sold these days are adjustable in some way, shape or form.  

Master Saddler and Master Saddle Fitter Kay Hastilow looks at the reality around this increasingly discussed question...

 

There are many different methods of adjusting saddles, including tree squeezers, click bits on the tree points and a multitude of adjustable bars, this latter, when done correctly being the most common and successful in my opinion. Surely then this is all you need? Choose the saddle that you like, make sure it’s the right width fitting (easier said than done) and away you go! Where is the problem with this? No need for a saddle fitter and they are always so hard to get hold of anyway. They are always so busy! (I wonder why?) Here are some reasons explaining why fitting your own saddles isn’t such a good idea.

The first problem is that not all adjustable saddles will fit all horses. Some horses, such as but not exclusively, those with high, long withers (think thoroughbreds amongst others) need more support down the front of the tree points, which themselves will need to be longer, therefore needing a longer bar. Conversely, use a tree with long points and a long bar on a cob with a broad back and it is likely that there will be excess pressure either side of the back behind the shoulders. Also, the points may well stick out and catch the rider’s leg as they don’t follow the curved shape of his back. These shaped equines need a shorter bar, preferably more open at the head. In other words it’s more like an upside down U rather than a V.

Using a tree with short points on the more angular high withered horse means that the panel is not supported beyond the point ends. As a result, the saddle is ultimately supported by the rib cage of the horse. Although there is muscle and fascia above the ribs,  muscle works by expanding and contracting but cannot, of itself support weight. This is easy to prove for yourself. Make your thigh muscles as tight and rigid as you can. Press your thumb into it. See? It sinks into the muscle, doesn’t it?  

It's also the case that in high withered horses, the rib cage starts considerably lower down the horse’s sides than in a cob type and the muscle there can no more support the saddle and rider than the muscle in your thigh can support your finger. This is why the currently popular short tree points on many saddles need to be so much narrower than anything that I have fitted for many years. These tree points will put direct pressure through the muscle causing atrophy and scarring. Also, these saddles usually drop onto the wither so several pads are needed to get clearance. Err… close contact so that you can feel the horse – with loads of pads? This doesn’t equate for me but perhaps you see it differently?

Having decided on the type of saddle that you think will suit your horse, what width bar do you need? You might take a guess and you might be right but in my experience the more common problem is that too wide a bar is used. Thinking that wider is better for the horse is so totally wrong, as Russell Mackechnie-Guire’s work undertaken for The Society of Master Saddlers has proved. A bar that is too wide just causes all the weight to concentrate under the front third of the saddle, resulting in huge areas of excess pressure, often leading to white hairs, if not open saddle sores, behind the shoulders as well as restricting the movement of the horse. No, the muscle will not develop here if you allow space for it. The excess pressures will in fact cause the opposite effect, as many have found to their cost.

Having seen the importance of the length of the tree points, you now feel able to order the right saddle. He’s a thoroughbred so long tree points. Check. But hold on a minute? Is his back level or is he a bit uphill or downhill? Does he change when ridden? This will dictate the depth of rear gusset that he needs, so now you will at least need a friend to film you riding to see this - but hold on! Horses don’t always go the same in one saddle as another, so might be different in the adjustable saddle that you are going to buy….  Have to take a guess then.

This is the same in reverse for cobs. You might well need little to no rear gusset or a fairly deep one. Suddenly this isn’t looking just so easy is it?

Tree shape is next. Flat in the back or curvy? Something in-between? Tree types for each, both with long and short points. Mmm.

What about girth straps? Well everyone knows that you use the first and third don’t they? Not necessarily so with adjustable saddles. Many have several strap positions so that the saddle fitter can find the optimum girthing arrangement for you and your horse. With many, the first strap is attached to the tree points, a point strap. This is to help position the girth straps vertically with a forward girth groove. In this case a point strap is a preferred option, as otherwise, the saddle moving forward onto the shoulders will restrict movement and be uncomfortable for the horse. However, if the point strap isn’t needed, using it will tend to hold the saddle too far back and is likely to pull the front of the saddle too low on the withers.

For saddles with five strap position options the equivalent of 1 and 3 is 2 and 3. The fittings that you can fit straps to at the back are for when point straps are being used to prevent the back of the saddle lifting, or where an active horse tends to bounce the saddle at the back (so long as the front is fitted correctly and isn’t too wide). Another use is to help keep the saddle straight when either the horse’s action or an unbalanced rider tends to take the saddle over to one side. This usually calls for slight and skilful flocking adjustment as well, not something that the owner should be trying.   

Talking of flocking adjustment, this is one of the things that saddle fitters will usually have to do when fitting even an adjustable, as often the saddle will need a touch of wool here or there so as to get the balance, contact and straightness correct. Those who have had the misfortune to see a badly flocked and lumpy saddle will realise that it’s very easy to get flocking very wrong.

It is because a saddle fitter will be aware of all of the questions above plus many others and have answers to these that it is still necessary to have your saddle professionally fitted. One of the leading manufacturers of adjustable saddles will only sell through qualified saddle fitters so that their end user will get the very best out of their saddles.  And you know how busy saddle fitters are? Much of our work is sorting things out when someone has gone the DIY route. Often this has caused the horse pain or discomfort and often the saddle has to be replaced as you have bought something unsuitable. This can become a very expensive cost cutting exercise!

Like many riders and trainers, you've probably thought at some point that understanding more about saddles and saddle fitting would have the potential to help you improve your horse's comfort, performance and also long-term soundness - and not only are you right, you can now do that online, whenever and wherever fits into your busy lifestyle.

With online learning and training now much  more familiar to us all, Kay's highly acclaimed and informative 2-part video series continues to sell around the world since its launch in 2019. Aptly titled Saddle Fitting Know How - For Riders and Trainers, the two videos distil her 50 years of experience into over an hour of what is an unrivalled go-to resource for all Riders and Trainers interested in saddles and saddle fitting. They contain a wealth of information that will be of practical relevance to everyone serious about improving their riding, competing with more success or at a higher level and for those whose career is focused on training riders to develop their horses correctly.
Watch a brief trailer and buy securely online for unlimited streaming or downloading to your device at
https://vimeo.com/ondemand/saddlefittingknowhow

If you are working as a saddle fitter or in training for a career in saddle fitting, Kay's 8-part video series titled Fitting Saddles: The Essential Guide will support your learning and help you develop a more in-depth knowledge of the subject and include invaluable insights into running a successful business as an SMS qualified saddle fitter.

Watch a trailer and invest in one or more of the series that together form a definitive resource to enhance your understanding of saddles and saddle fitting.
Buy securely online for unlimited streaming or downloading to your device at
https://vimeo.com/ondemand/fittingsaddles

 

D's on Saddles De-Mystified

Most modern saddles will come with two D’s each side at the front of the saddle. Why two? What is the difference? What should they be used for? Master Saddler and Master Saddler Fitter Kay Hastilow explains ...

The topmost D is what saddlers call a drop fall staple. This D is attached by a strong bifurcated nail which goes right through the tree of the saddle, opening out both ways on the underside of the tree. The lower D is held on with a piece of leather doubled around it, which is then stapled to the tree lower down. 

Please remember that the position of both D’s is relative to the shape of tree, flap and panel. They will be higher on a tree with short tree points, lower on a deep tree with long points. Therefore, we don’t use measurements between D’s as any form of width assessment. It could be totally different with one tree /saddle type to another. 

So, why do we need two D’s each side? Which should be used for what? The first and primary use is to attach some form of breastplate to help prevent the saddle from moving back. IT IS ESSENTIAL that such breastplates are attached to the drop fall staple, the higher one that goes right through the tree. If there is any pull at all on this, the drop fall should hold it, whereas the D on a leather wrap, which is stapled to the tree, is likely to pull out at the first hint of pressure. These latter types were originally used for attaching flasks and wire cutters whilst out hunting but, of course, most people wouldn’t have such a use for them these days. However, many carry front mounted saddle bags, spare lead ropes, hand holds and other gadgets and these D’s are ideal for this job. 

 

A word of warning. If you really need the breastplate to hold your saddle in place you would be well advised to also use added restraints in the form of cord loops, which slide onto the stirrup bar in front of the stirrup leather. The loop should line up with the drop fall staple in length, the breastplate fixing straps attached to both D and loop.  This will mean that whatever force is put onto the saddle, the straps should hold. I have seen the drop fall staples on their own pull out when a very fit, lean horse was going up a steep hill. Very unpleasant for the rider. Not very nice for the horse either!

Some saddles will have D’s at the back, behind the flap and usually on the off side. These were for sandwich cases but are nowadays used for saddle bags and other bits and bobs. Not all saddles will have them, and most that do have them on the off side only although you will occasionally see 2 on each side. These were probably put on at the client’s request at the time of making, or added for a specific use at a later date. These D’s are stapled to the tree with a wrap of leather and are therefore not very strong. 

I am enjoying writing these posts and like reading your responses. Do any of you have specific queries, or want something explained? Please let me know and, if possible I will endeavour to write a post on that topic.

Find out more information on all things Saddle Fitting from Kay Hastilow’s series of expert videos available onhttp://www.khsaddlery.co.uk/educational.html and join in the conversation on facebook

Why Rider Balance Affects Comfort and Performance

Kay Hastilow assessing a horse's conformation and back
during a saddle fitting appointment.

I am constantly amazed that riders (and often trainers) are oblivious it seems, to the importance of the balance of the saddle. If they are aware of this, there are some rather weird ideas as to how to see if the balance is correct. Apparently, you can ‘put a cotton reel on the seat and it should stay in the centre’. Oh yeah! This takes no account of how the horse reacts when the rider gets on.

He may drop his back, in which case the saddle, previously thought to be ‘level’ will be tipping back.  When he is actually working, he may well ‘lift his back’ into the saddle, and it would then be tipping forward. Funnily enough, both faults will make the rider tip forward as the rider attempts to prevent themselves from getting left behind, often bracing their lower back in an effort to stay upright. Sore backs (with the rider) commonly result from this. 

I find that the best way for a rider or trainer to see if the balance is correct is to ride the horse so that he is warmed up and going as you expect and then have someone take a film of this. You can freeze frame it on side views to see, does the saddle look level? Is it tipping back , so that the rider is tipping forward in an effort to stay upright? Is the saddle tipping ‘downhill’, with the rider probably sticking their legs out forward and bracing themselves to stay ‘in position’?

It is easy to put a temporary pad under the front or back of the saddle to try and balance it and ride with it like this to see if there is an improvement in the rider’s position. If the results are good, then contact your qualified saddle fitter to correct this for you. It might be necessary to use adjusting pads to get the result that you want, and I would suggest that trainers should have a multi adjustable pad, such as the Prolite thin multi adjuster pad with them when teaching, as correctly balancing the saddle will greatly improve their pupil’s position.

Visit Kay Hastilow's website to find out more - www.khsaddlery.co.uk - where you will find links to her expert series of educational films about all aspects of saddle fitting.

Get The CORRECT Answers To Saddle Fitting Questions

Throughout her many years of experience as a Master Saddler and Master Saddle Fitter, Kay Hastilow has been asked innumerable different questions by horseowners and here she gives brief answers to just some of the most commonly heard enquiries....

Q.  What is the difference between a saddler and a saddle fitter?

A.  A Qualified saddler is a skilled craftsman who can sit at a bench and make saddles, bridles or other items of leatherwork. A saddler (referred to in the trade as a bench saddler) might have absolutely no knowledge of how a saddle should fit, nor recognise good or bad fit.

A saddle fitter understands how the saddle should fit, will understand which tree, panel design and girth strap arrangement is needed for each individual horse and why, and how well the saddle fits for the rider. However, they might have no bench skills and so not be able to make, nor to adjust an existing saddle to fit the horse.

The finest saddle fitters have both the skills of a saddler and a saddle fitter. Ideally, they will also be horsemen and be able to ride, but this is not always the case.

Q. Why is good saddle fit important?

A.  We need the saddle to give us security, balance and position and all of this will help the horse to perform to the best of his ability, be it in competition or out hacking. If his saddle is uncomfortable (or in some cases downright painful), we shouldn’t be surprised if our horse is less than enthusiastic or blatantly naughty when we ride him.

Q. What should we look for in a good saddle fitter?

A. The Society of Master Saddlers has been training and assessing saddle fitters to Qualified Saddle Fitter (QSF) qualification since 1995, so has more experience in this field than other qualification awarding bodies. If the fitter is good, you may well have to wait up to six weeks for a visit, but he or she will be worth waiting for.

Q. Where can you find out about good saddle fitters?

A. The Society of Master Saddlers website has all of the qualified fitters listed by county. There are symbols to show what qualifications each holds, so that you can see if the fitter is also a qualified saddler. Whilst there are other fitters, both with or without qualifications out there, the SMS QSF gives you an assurance that the fitter knows what is what, and you have the Society to turn to if you have any problems.

Q. How often should I get my saddle fitted?

A. It rather depends on the age and breed of your horse and the work that they are doing. Young horses especially, from being backed at three to being in a regular routine by the age of six to nine, can change a great deal in a very short space of time. I have seen horses change by more than a width fitting in a matter of weeks. For this age group, every three to four months is ideal. Older horses can change dramatically as well, so four to six months for them.

A middle-aged horse with a regular stable routine and in regular work will need checking once every six months, but if the horse has changes to his routine, such as eventers, hunters, or horses kept in during the winter but turned out to grass 24/7 in the summer, they will need more regular visits.

Of course, ANY horse showing discomfort or changes in their way of going should have the saddle checked as soon as possible.

Q. What should I look for in a good saddle fit?

Ask the horse! He should not go to the back of the stable when you walk in with the saddle. The saddle should just slide into place on the horse’s back and want to stay in the right position. When ridden in, the saddle should be level so that you do not need to lean forward to maintain your balance. It should be stable, not lifting or bouncing at the back. There should be sufficient clearance to the top and sides of the spine right through the length of the saddle so that there is no pressure from the saddle anywhere in this area. Note, we do not say 2/3/4 fingers, as this can be very misleading. The tree of the saddle (shorter than the panel) should not go beyond T18 (the position of the last rib), although it is okay if the panel extends beyond here by an inch or so. The panel should be smooth and giving, not hard and lumpy. There should be an even contact between the saddle and the horse’s back.

Q. How can I tell if my saddle needs checked?

A. If your horse does not seem happy to be tacked up, or is not going as freely and as well as normal, this might indicate discomfort. If you are finding it difficult to sit still or in balance, or you feel as if you are going to be tipped forward or back, this will indicate that the saddle is out of balance. Get a friend to film you riding and look to see if you are riding in a good position, legs in the right place and that you are upright.

It is good practice to measure your horse’s girth each week, especially when the grass starts coming through, or in the middle of winter. Measure in centimetres (all weight tapes have this measurement, and it will be the same whichever tape you use, whereas the weights shown will differ) A gain or loss of 5 cm. is roughly equivalent to 40 kg. weight change, which can totally alter the way the saddle is fitting. A 3 cm. change will signify the need to get the saddle fitter in to check. 

Q. What affects saddle fit?

A. This could be a long list!

Putting the saddle too far forward. (My pet bug bear)

Using very thick numnahs or pads with a saddle fitted using something thinner.

Different girths.

Using different girth straps (say 1 & 2 rather than 1 & 3)

Uneven stirrup leathers.

Weight gain or loss. (time of year)

Change in the type or level of work.

A different rider.

Lameness.

Injury.

Crooked riders.

Riders carrying an injury.

I could go on…….

Find out more by visiting Kay Hastilow’s website at www.khsaddlery.co.uk  check out the Educational Films page and join in the conversation on Facebook