Thursday, 11 March 2021

Busting Myths 15 - "I want an adjustable saddle because it will fit any horse that I buy"

 


There are many myths that have been going around with regards to saddlery and the use thereof. In this series of posts, I endeavour to show most of them are without foundations and can, in some cases, be the opposite of the actual facts.

Pictured right is author Kay Hastilow, Master Saddler and Master Saddle Fitter.

 

 

The arrival of adjustable saddles that really work has been a boon to saddle fitters and owners alike.

For the saddle fitter it means that they no longer have to hold so many saddles of one style because, although the different seat sizes and colours are still needed, we no longer need to hold all of the different width fittings. This enables us, as fitters, to hold more lines of saddles, greatly increasing the choice available for you.

Having an adjustable saddle does not mean that it can be made to fit any horse that you ever own – far from it, for within the saddle styles there are still options for different shaped trees to suit, say a high withered thoroughbred or a round cob. The former tends to have longer tree points and more shape to the tree and a deeper cut panel to enable you to keep the saddle clear of the spine, whereas for a cob or flat backed type of horse you have a flatter tree, often with shorter tree points and less depth and area to the panel.

The ‘fun’ starts when someone buys an adjustable saddle for a TB type of horse, changes to a flatter backed horse and blithely believes that, as the saddle is adjustable it can be made to fit the new neddy.  No chance - it just can’t be done successfully. If you change the bar to the correct width the saddle will bounce and rock. The other way round, flat tree on a horse with a decent wither will just collapse down onto the spine unless you put in a bar two width fittings too narrow. This may stop the saddle from going too low but will be doing untold damage to the muscles behind the shoulder, not to mention that it will be very uncomfortable for the horse. You can’t really expect your new acquisition to go well or behave himself for you. He simply isn’t able to.

You may think, in view of the above that you could buy the flatter treed saddle and use pads with it but all that will achieve is an ill-fitting, unstable saddle with pads – hardly more comfortable or much of an improvement  from the horse’s point of view as although it may look okay to you, the pressures and forces will not be being evenly dispersed throughout the saddle. Pads have their place and can be very helpful, but this is not such a case.

Having an adjustable saddle will mean that, as your horse changes shape be it through work, the time of year or for any other reason, you can adjust the width fitting to achieve an excellent fit year- round. Most horses will go up or down a width fitting throughout the year so if your saddle fitter shows you how to check which bar is correct you can have two or three bars and keep the fit right. Please make sure that you do check the bar and don’t just imagine that your horse needs something wider as I so often see. I refer to the excellent post from Dr Russell McKechnie-Guire on his research into the problems caused by the use of a saddle that is too wide. Logic will tell you that this will be better for the horse. Scientific research will tell you that this is wrong!

Of course, you can change the bar yourself, but it is still necessary to have the saddle professionally checked twice a year as the change of bar can affect the flocking and panel contact.

If you buy another horse of a similar type and shape your saddle fitter can almost certainly alter it successfully to fit the new addition, although they may well advise having the saddle stripped and re-flocked so that the flocking can settle to the new shape. It’s rather like borrowing someone’s shoes. They might be the right size, but I doubt that they will be comfortable as they will have gone to the shape of the previous owner’s feet. None the less, a visit from the QSF, perhaps a new bar or two and a re-flock is still going to be far cheaper than replacing the saddle, plus you will know the saddle and that it has moulded to you. Always an advantage I find.

So, there you have it. Adjustable saddles are great. The fit to your horse can easily be monitored and adjusted and it might be possible to change the saddle to fit a new horse. Might, but not definite. Fingers crossed eh?

 

Understanding more about saddles and saddle fitting has the potential to help you improve your horse's comfort, performance and also long-term soundness - and you can now do that online, whenever and wherever fits into your busy lifestyle.

Saddle Fitting Videos from Kay Hastilow

With online learning and training credibly established as 'the new normal', Kay's highly acclaimed and informative 2-part video series continues to sell around the world since its launch in 2019. Aptly titled Saddle Fitting Know How - For Riders and Trainers, the two videos distil her 50 years of experience into over an hour of what is an unrivalled go-to resource for all Riders and Trainers interested in saddles and saddle fitting. They contain a wealth of information that will be of practical relevance to everyone serious about improving their riding, competing with more success or at a higher level and for those whose career is focused on training riders to develop their horses correctly.
Watch a brief trailer and buy securely online for unlimited streaming or downloading to your device at

https://vimeo.com/ondemand/saddlefittingknowhow

If you are working as a saddle fitter or in training for a career in saddle fitting, Kay's 8-part video series titled Fitting Saddles: The Essential Guide will support your learning and help you develop a more in-depth knowledge of the subject and include invaluable insights into running a successful business as an SMS qualified saddle fitter.

Watch a trailer and invest in one or more of the series that together form a definitive resource to enhance your understanding of saddles and saddle fitting.
Buy securely online for unlimited streaming or downloading to your device at
https://vimeo.com/ondemand/fittingsaddles




Thursday, 4 March 2021

Busting Myths 14 - You should always use the first and third girth straps on your saddle when girthing up


There are many myths that have been going around with regards to saddlery and the use thereof. In this series of posts, I endeavour to show most of them are without foundations and can, in some cases, be the opposite of the actual facts.

Pictured left is author Kay Hastilow, Master Saddler and Master Saddle Fitter.

 

The average saddle used to have just three girth straps each side – one just behind the front arch of the tree on one web, then two more behind this, stitched to a wider web. We were told that this was because there was always a risk of one of the webs breaking, which did happen when we used flax webbing and tin tacks, as the latter tended to rust causing the web to rot and often break. We were told to use the front strap and one other so that you had both webs holding your saddle on. The only exception that you really saw was the addition of point straps which were rivetted to the end of the points of the tree. These were to help prevent the saddle going forward and usually seen on pony saddles.

How things have changed! And I’m happy to say for the better. With the options available to us as saddle fitters now, we are usually able to achieve a good fit with the straps suitably positioned without having to take the saddle away and fit extra straps. Our task is just to make sure that you are clear on which straps you will be using.

To know which straps to use, we need to understand what we are trying to achieve and that is, when the saddle is placed in the correct position, that the most suitable girth straps will lay vertically to the girth groove and therefore to the girth. If they are angled forward or back the saddle will move until that vertical line is achieved which may well pull the saddle forward onto the shoulder or back onto the lumbar area, neither of which is desirable.

On this GP saddle, girth straps from L to R are:
Point Strap
1st strap on a conventional saddle
3rd strap on a conventional saddle
Self centering, V web, back pull / balance strap
NB. Ususally there will only be three straps
each side on such a saddle, the third or back
strap being removed depending on what suits
the horse best for fit. This is just for illustration
.
With many horses this will correspond with the old advice to use one and three but that is  assuming that ‘one’ isn’t a point strap, as many saddles now have this fitted as standard. In some makes you will have a point strap, a standard positioned ‘first’ strap followed by two fixings to which you can attach a third strap. The first fixing generally is for when you are using the ‘first’ strap so that you would be using the equivalent of one and three on an older style saddle. The second fixing that your third strap can attach (or is attached) to is either on a fixed web angled forward, or on a V web where the fixing, and therefore the girth strap can find its own centre and not pull the saddle forward. These back straps are usually used when employing the point straps as these will tend to pull the front of the saddle down, causing the back of the saddle to lift, move and bounce. I find the fittings on the V web best for this as the fixed straps, in trying to get vertical are inclined to pull the saddle forward – just what we are trying to prevent by using the point strap! That rather defeats the object of the exercise I find.

Mind you, the other reason for having these back straps is to prevent saddle slip over to one side. Now the reasons for saddle slip are many and we can cover that in another post but if this happens, you have discovered the cause and there is nothing that you can correct in the horse, yourself or the saddle to prevent this, then you need a balance strap. Rather like with side saddles where the rider’s weight is more to the left side of the horse, a balance strap is fitted on the right side to prevent the saddle from moving over to the left. A fixed strap works very well as a balance strap, as does the strap on the V web, but must be used just on the one side, opposite to the way the saddle is moving.

On this dressage saddle from L to R:
Point strap through panel
Web for first strap if point not required
Self centering, V web back strap

Obviously the above is talking about saddles with short girth straps but we have similar options with many dressage / mono flap saddles. Most dressage saddles seem to come with a point strap as standard these days, which I suspect is because so many big moving dressage horses push the saddles forward that makers, especially I suggest those on the Continent, consider this essential. This really isn’t true though as many, especially thoroughbreds that are eventing not only don’t need these straps but positively hate them and will be restricted in their action because of this. I see that many British made saddles nowadays have webs fitted so that you can choose which front strap position is best for your horse – a great advantage I feel.

The point straps, where fitted, can lay in different positions but if angled back a little (as always used to be the case) they will just drag the saddle forward until the straps are perpendicular- just what we are trying to avoid. Once this was realised the point straps were either run through the front panel or under the knee roll, or a loop was sewn to the top of the front panel that the strap goes through, so holding the strap straight. So long as these don’t cause pressure beneath the strap where it crosses the panel this works well for those horses that need this help.

The rear straps are almost universally on a form of V web now, and all the better for that. They help to distribute the pull of the strap over a wider area and give better stability to the saddle, therefore the rider and the horse which, as we all now know enables him to work more easily. If a balance strap is needed this can be achieved by putting some stitches in the web so that there is slightly more pull from the back web fastening than the front but all in all, these options are a huge improvement on what went before.

Of course, none of this helps unless you are using a suitable and well-designed girth, but more on that another day.

 

Understanding more about saddles and saddle fitting has the potential to help you improve your horse's comfort, performance and also long-term soundness - and you can now do that online, whenever and wherever fits into your busy lifestyle.

With online learning and training credibly established as 'the new normal', Kay's highly acclaimed and informative 2-part video series continues to sell around the world since its launch in 2019. Aptly titled Saddle Fitting Know How - For Riders and Trainers, the two videos distil her 50 years of experience into over an hour of what is an unrivalled go-to resource for all Riders and Trainers interested in saddles and saddle fitting. They contain a wealth of information that will be of practical relevance to everyone serious about improving their riding, competing with more success or at a higher level and for those whose career is focused on training riders to develop their horses correctly.
Watch a brief trailer and buy securely online for unlimited streaming or downloading to your device at

https://vimeo.com/ondemand/saddlefittingknowhow

 

If you are working as a saddle fitter or in training for a career in saddle fitting, Kay's 8-part video series titled Fitting Saddles: The Essential Guide will support your learning and help you develop a more in-depth knowledge of the subject and include invaluable insights into running a successful business as an SMS qualified saddle fitter.

Watch a trailer and invest in one or more of the series that together form a definitive resource to enhance your understanding of saddles and saddle fitting.
Buy securely online for unlimited streaming or downloading to your device at
https://vimeo.com/ondemand/fittingsaddles