Fads and Facts - Saddlecloths and Gel Pads

Personal taste again? - asks Kay Hastilow, Master Saddler and Master Saddler Fitter - of this much-discussed subject, about which she shares her decades of experience below...

Many of the modern cloths and numnahs have very attractive piping and binding around the edges and lots of bling. This is no problem so long as the cloth is big enough so that at no time does the saddle come into contact with the piping at the back or, in the case of a numnah, around the sides. Often, this is okay, but when you get to the girth slots the piping runs under the girth, making an area of pressure that will be most uncomfortable. Please always check that this area is clear of additional edgings.

Many cloths have fastenings from the front of the pad to the Ds of the saddle – a much better option that having the tabs come from under the saddle and back to the girth straps. Once again, pressure. Some will say that with the fastening at the front of the saddle the cloth runs back under the saddle. Often the cause of this is the material that the cloth is made from, being very high in, or totally made from, a synthetic material. Cotton, either pure cotton or a very high cotton content is what is needed, but of course these are more expensive. The bonus from this is that they will almost certainly have a nicer shape and sit so much better on the horse.

‘Gel’ pads are all the rage at the moment, with a bit of fluff around the back. Unless absolutely necessary to prevent excessive slippage please do not use them, especially on jumping horses. They grip the skin meaning that it can’t 'flow' under the saddle, as happens with a more standard pad. Testing has shown a marked reduction of performance in the horse when using these, so weigh up your priorities. “Without this pad the saddle slips to an unacceptable extent. With it, it stays in place”. If that isn’t your reply, then don’t use it! Oh, and as a shock absorber? Most of the high pressures occur under the front part of the saddle and are fleeting with a well-fitting saddle. The pressure relief you believe you achieve may well be counteracted by the holding and pulling of the skin beneath it. THINK about what you are doing by using these products!

Stirrup leathers.  For your preference surely?  Perhaps not. The fashion at the moment is for hide covered web which has the advantage of not being too thick, but heavy stirrup leather butt or buffalo leathers tend to be bulky and will put pressure through the recessed stirrup bar area into the horse’s sides. NOT what we are wanting.

Whilst we're on the subject of tack ...

Bits are now being thought about much more and there are some excellent bitting experts out there that you can consult. Do check their qualifications though. We have more than enough self-styled 'experts' on many topics in the horse world, most without qualification or, more importantly, insurance.

Fashion is a great driver in the equestrian market and bits go in fads as much as anything that we use, but please take a moment to look into his mouth before deciding what to use on your horse. The width of the jaw, positioning of the teeth, size and thickness of the tongue and the shape of the roof of his mouth will all influence what he will find acceptable and what he will not. Perhaps you will need that qualified bitting expert.

These are just some of the many items that we use on our horses with little thought. Please consider every item that you use with or on your horse, study available research into the product and make your choices in an informed way and not because your pal Brenda or your trainer Richard uses this, that or the other 'whatever'.. Good, repeatable research using pressure testing, gait analysis and film can show you so much. Why not benefit from it?

Kay Hastilow’s Saddle Fitting Know How For Riders and Trainers is a two part video series, giving a fascinating, practical insight into saddles, correct fit and common problems. It will give you a basic understanding of many factors that affect the choice of saddle for a horse and rider. alongside helping you to work more closely with your fully qualified and insured saddle fitter.

Each video is less than the cost of a good quality saddle cloth - or a lesson - and every rider and trainer will find them a helpful addition to the library. 
Click to buy Kay Hastilow's  expert videos now  

How Serious Is Saddle Slippage?

Much has been written over the last couple of years about saddle slippage. There has been excellent work undertaken by Sue Dyson, MA, VetMD, PhDDEO FRCVS and her team at The Animal Health Trust. The conclusions seem to have been understood as ‘if a saddle slips over to one side, there is almost certainly an underlying lameness'.

Master Saddler and Master Saddler Fitter Kay Hastilow sheds more light on the discussions ...

All well and good, but let’s just think about this. I have been told by several eminent veterinarians that very few horses are truly one hundred percent sound. Certainly, in my 50 years as a saddler I have found this to be true. Most horses on a run-up or when ridden may show a slight asymmetry of pace, length of stride, elevation of each limb or straightness of movement. This is why saddle fitters should watch the horse move. Not so that we can ‘condemn’ the horse as being lame, but to note and bear in mind these slight abnormalities as they would impact on the way that the saddle fits.

However, there are many other reasons why a saddle can move off to one side. Let’s consider a few of these. 

Of course, the saddle might not be straight. ‘Twisted ’ trees are actually quite uncommon, but panels are often not in straight or level, either at the front or at the back. You can often see that when you look from the underside through the panel that it is not in line with the centre and side rails of the tree. In this case, of course the saddle will sit to one side. The flocking may not be even both sides, or not corresponding to the shape of the back. Uneven girth straps and webs can alter the way a saddle sits. There are many different reasons why the saddle won’t sit straight to start with. 

Many horses are asymmetric in the shoulders. It may be that one is higher than the other, more pronounced, or one is set further back than on the opposite side. This is generally skeletal and cannot be altered by working the horse in a certain way. If the saddle is placed a little too forward, this will push the saddle over to one side at the back. In actual fact, if I could just get people to realise that most of them put the saddle too far forward and get them to set it just a little further back, many of the fitting problems that we see would disappear overnight!

It may be that the shoulders are even, but development behind here is uneven. Often, horses have not built up so much on one side as the other. Usually, but not always, it is the left (near) side that is less developed and there are many theories as to why this should be so. Obviously, if there is less development on the left, the saddle will drop into this hollow and sit to the right at the front. Many feel that they want to lift the right front to balance it, but it is almost always the left front that you would add to in this case, either with shims or flock. What action the saddler would take would depend on the age of the horse, the time in his present ownership and the work he is doing. If it is a young horse in a new home where he will be worked well by a good rider, there is a good chance that the muscle can be built up on this side, but an older horse who mainly hacks out, with the rider almost always rising on the same diagonal at trot and allowing the horse to lead on his favoured leg in canter is unlikely to change, and so the best solution would be to add flock to the opposite side to the way the saddle moves.

Muscle development right through a horse’s back can be unlevel side to side (this is probably a result of a slight lameness, but the result is that the saddle moves)  You may wonder why your saddle fitter takes a good look at your horse’s conformation, does a ‘back assessment’ and watches him move. It is to find these facts out so that they, and through them you, are aware of any potential difficulties that may arise with the fitting. If your saddle fitter doesn’t do these assessments and just comes in and starts putting saddles on, I would question his or her ability. I call these people saddle sellers, not fitters, as recognising differences such as those mentioned above and their likely influence are essential to be able to achieve a satisfactory fit.

Having seen the effect such conformational or development factors can have on the fit, let’s consider the rider. The rider that is straight and balanced is a rarity. Even those that look okay are seen to be slightly ‘squint’ when filmed wearing the Visualise’ jacket from Centaur Biomechanics. This excellent tool has stripes of fluorescent tape strategically placed on the front, back and sleeves. You can see how straight the rider is with the naked eye, but you can see more clearly when you film the rider from the front, back and side. You can replay and freeze frame where you are not sure. The deviation from straight and centre can be slight or marked, and can really affect the way a saddle sits. Of course, if a ‘squint’ rider uses a saddle for a while, that will alter it so that it will move to one side even when others ride in it. 

Take a look at yourself. If you ride down a straight road and a friend films from behind, you will see just how straight you are sitting. You might be in for a shock!! You would be surprised, I think, to find out how many people ride with uneven length stirrup leathers, either by design or ignorance, and many riders will have far more weight in one foot than the other. Try this. As you are riding along, half close your eyes. (Make sure that you are somewhere safe when you do this!)  Think about the weight in the stirrups. I bet one has much more weight in it than the other.

Hands and shoulders are another influence. Rein gauges used in testing have shown that very few riders have an even contact with their horse’s mouth. Add to that many ride with one shoulder higher or more forward then the other, and the imbalance can send everything off centre as the horse tries to cope with this.

A rider's legs are another problem. It is not uncommon for a rider to have one leg further forward than the other, with the knee sitting more forward or higher in the knee grip on this side. The lower leg may or may not be in the same position both sides, and the hips and seat of the rider are rarely completely square. All of these ‘rider faults’ can take the saddle over to one side, or unbalance the horse, so that in his effort to keep balanced he moves the saddle. 

Dealing with the above problems are everyday occurrences for saddle fitters. Is the problem solvable? Can the rider straighten out? Is a trip to the physio for both horse and rider necessary? It’s no point straightening one half of the equation if the other half is still squint - and any changes made to either will take time to bed in.

If it is something that is not going to be solved by training or treatment, there are many things that the saddle fitter can do to hold the saddle straight. The addition of an extra girth strap in the correct position, adjustment to the flocking in the saddle or the use of shims and other work can correct the saddle slip, and remember, whilst we would all like our horses and their riders to be completely straight and square, this is unlikely to happen. It is also unlikely to improve while the saddle is drifting off to one side, as the muscle will not re-build whilst there is excess pressure to that area. The saddle needs to be straight for this to happen.

The first video in Kay Hastilow's Saddle Fitting Know How For Riders and Trainers looks at conformation and its influence on saddle fitting, the movement of the horse, the different types of saddle trees, panel types, positioning of girth straps and how they can all influence a fit.

The second video explains how a trained and qualified saddle fitter will assess a saddle for straightness, soundness and safety, along with static and dynamic recognition of a good fit and how the balance of the saddle influences the rider. It also explores why saddles move to one side and looks at the influence of the rider.

Available to stream and download anytime, each video costs less than the price of a good quality saddlecloth at just £35.

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Answers To Those All Important Questions

Throughout her many years of experience as a Master Saddler and Master Saddle Fitter, Kay Hastilow has been asked innumerable different questions by horseowners and here she gives brief answers to just some of the most frequently heard enquiries....

Q.  What is the difference between a saddler and a saddle fitter?

A.  A Qualified saddler is a skilled craftsman who can sit at a bench and make saddles, bridles or other items of leatherwork. A saddler (referred to in the trade as a bench saddler) might have absolutely no knowledge of how a saddle should fit, nor recognise good or bad fit.

A saddle fitter understands how the saddle should fit, will understand which tree, panel design and girth strap arrangement is needed for each individual horse and why, and how well the saddle fits for the rider. However, they might have no bench skills and so not be able to make, nor to adjust an existing saddle to fit the horse.

The finest saddle fitters have both the skills of a saddler and a saddle fitter. Ideally, they will also be horsemen and be able to ride, but this is not always the case.

Q. Why is good saddle fit important?

A.  We need the saddle to give us security, balance and position and all of this will help the horse to perform to the best of his ability, be it in competition or out hacking. If his saddle is uncomfortable (or in some cases downright painful), we shouldn’t be surprised if our horse is less than enthusiastic or blatantly 'naughty' when we ride him.

Q. What should we look for in a good saddle fitter?

A. The Society of Master Saddlers has been training and assessing saddle fitters to the Qualified Saddle Fitter (QSF) qualification since 1995, so has more experience in this field than other qualification awarding bodies. If the fitter is good, you may well have to wait up to six weeks for a visit, but he or she will be worth waiting for. 

Q. Where can you find out about good saddle fitters?

A. The Society of Master Saddlers website has all of the qualified fitters listed by county. There are symbols to show what qualifications each holds, so that you can see if the fitter is also a qualified saddler. Whilst there are other fitters, both with or without qualifications out there, the SMS QSF gives you an assurance that the fitter knows what is what, and you have the Society to turn to if you have any problems.

Q. How often should I get my saddle fitted?

A. It rather depends on the age and breed of your horse and the work that they are doing. Young horses especially, from being backed at three to being in a regular routine by the age of six to nine, can change a great deal in a very short space of time. I have seen horses change by more than a width fitting in a matter of weeks. For this age group, every three to four months is ideal. Older horses can change dramatically as well, so four to six months for them.

A middle-aged horse with a regular stable routine and in regular work will need checking once every six months, but if the horse has changes to his routine, such as eventers, hunters, or horses kept in during the winter but turned out to grass 24/7 in the summer, they will need more regular visits.

Of course, ANY horse showing discomfort or changes in their way of going should have the saddle checked as soon as possible.

Q. What should I look for in a good saddle fit?

Ask the horse! He should not go to the back of the stable when you walk in with the saddle. The saddle should just slide into place on the horse’s back and want to stay in the right position. When ridden in, the saddle should be level so that you do not need to lean forward to maintain your balance. It should be stable, not lifting or bouncing at the back. There should be sufficient clearance to the top and sides of the spine right through the length of the saddle so that there is no pressure from the saddle anywhere in this area. Note, we do not say 2/3/4 fingers, as this can be very misleading. The tree of the saddle (shorter than the panel) should not go beyond T18 (the position of the last rib), although it is okay if the panel extends beyond here by an inch or so. The panel should be smooth and giving, not hard and lumpy. There should be an even contact between the saddle and the horse’s back.

Q. How can I tell if my saddle needs checked?

A. If your horse does not seem happy to be tacked up, or is not going as freely and as well as normal, this might indicate discomfort. If you are finding it difficult to sit still or in balance, or you feel as if you are going to be tipped forward or back, this will indicate that the saddle is out of balance. Get a friend to film you riding and look to see if you are riding in a good position, legs in the right place and that you are upright.

It is good practice to measure your horse’s girth each week, especially when the grass starts coming through, or in the middle of winter. Measure in centimetres (all weight tapes have this measurement, and it will be the same whichever tape you use, whereas the weights shown will differ) A gain or loss of 5 cm. is roughly equivalent to 40 kg. weight change, which can totally alter the way the saddle is fitting. A 3 cm. change will signify the need to get the saddle fitter in to check.  

Q. What affects saddle fit?

A. This could be a long list!

Putting the saddle too far forward. (My pet bug bear)

Using very thick numnahs or pads with a saddle fitted using something thinner.

Different girths.

Using different girth straps (say 1 & 2 rather than 1 & 3)

Uneven stirrup leathers.

Weight gain or loss. (time of year)

Change in the type or level of work.

A different rider.

Lameness.

Injury.

Crooked riders.

Riders carrying an injury.

I could go on…….

Kay presents an informative 2-part video series distilling her 50 years of experience into what is an unrivalled resource for all Riders & Trainers interested in Saddles and Saddle Fitting. Find out how to get copies of SADDLE FITTING KNOW HOW - FOR RIDERS AND TRAINERS at https://vimeo.com/ondemand/saddlefittingknowhow 

Find out more by visiting Kay Hastilow’s website at www.khsaddlery.co.uk, check out the Educational Films page and join in the conversation on Facebook

The Pitfalls of Buying a Secondhand Saddle Online

If you are looking to buy second hand saddles on line - beware! If I have fitted for someone and their old saddle is faulty, as in not straight, the panels are uneven, the flock is very poor or the tree is ‘suspect’, or even broken, many will not accept my advice to burn it to save another horse from pain or discomfort. Rather, they want to get ‘something for it’, so I tell them to sell it on ebay or gumtree.

Buyer beware! Yes, you can send it back, but it’s not always just that straightforward. We hear many stories of sellers refusing to take goods back as they were damaged.  Try proving differently! 

You may buy a saddle on line and ask a fitter to come and check the fit, but I refuse to do this. Not because I want to sell one of my own saddles as many think, but rather, it is horrible to arrive at a yard to fit a saddle that the client has purchased, only to see straight away that there is no way in a month of Sundays’ that the saddle they have bought is ever going to fit their horse.

Now, the fitter may have driven many miles and booked an hour or so to do your fitting. Almost certainly, if they are a good fitter, they will have a 4 to 6 week wait for a slot, but here they are, knowing that the end result will not be what the client wants. Do you just say “sorry, it won’t fit” and drive away without charge, which will leave you considerably out of pocket, or go through the motions of a fit and charge for it, still ending up saying that the saddle is unsuitable and still having a disgruntled customer who thinks you just want to sell one of your own saddles.

In one case, I was told to “make it fit by squeezing the tree ”. Now, tree squeezers, if used properly can improve the fit of a saddle by bringing it in or out by up to one width fitting maximum, but this is only possible if the tree is of the correct shape and style for the horse in question. Also, there is always a risk that the tree can break, and who is going to take responsibility for that? In this case, the client had bought a new saddle on line, it was totally the wrong tree for the horse, apart from being extra wide when the animal needed a medium. I was roundly abused for refusing to squeeze it in. They then asked who they could go to to squeeze the tree, having chosen to ignore the fact that you can’t squeeze a tree in by that much.

You can see why now I just say “sorry, no”. Perhaps if you have had this response from a saddle fitter in the past, you might now understand why. 

Find out more from Kay Hastilow’s series of expert videos available online - visit https://vimeo.com/ondemand/saddlefittingknowhow/

How To Keep Your Expensive Tack Soft and Supple

How To Keep Your Expensive Tack Soft and Supple

When buying new leatherwork, it is best (having first satisfied yourself that it all fits and you are not going to want to return it) to treat it with a good leather dressing. We do not recommend using oil now- neatsfoot was the favourite when I was younger, followed rapidly by Mars oil, but many of the dressings available today are far superior to these advises Kay Hastilow Master Saddler and Master Saddle Fitter. I use Oakwood leather dressing on my own tack. Rapide is another good one, but there are many more on the market, most of which do a good job.

Take the leatherwork apart if it is a bridle or accessories and go over all of the leather with a LIGHT covering of dressing. Leave to soak in, preferably over- night, then put the items back together. Saddles, likewise give a light covering, and don’t forget to treat up under the skirts of the saddle (the flaps of leather that cover the stirrup bars) and get the dressing into all nooks and crevices. BE CAREFUL if the seat and knee pads are of suede or nubuck. You do not want to get leather dressing onto these.

DONT smother the leather as the dressing will not soak in and the leather will become dull and sticky. Apply two or three times a month rather than 3 times as much in one go.

If your Tack becomes hard and dry. What to do?

First of all, some leather used is of very poor quality. This tends to be hard and inflexible when you buy it and stays that way no matter what you treat it with. It can be rather brittle and can break in use. Best get rid of it before you or your horse gets injured by it.

Sometimes, leatherwork of a good quality may go hard and dry in use. This can be due to neglect- leather needs help to stay supple and if you don’t treat it occasionally with a good leather dressing it will become very hard. That means taking bridles apart, cleaning the leather thoroughly with a damp cloth or sponge and importantly  allowing to dry afterwards (best left overnight in somewhere warm, not somewhere cold and damp) and then making sure the dressing gets into all the turns, under keepers and the like. The turn on the body of a martingale for instance (the bit that the girth goes through) gets very wet and muddy, plus sweat from the horse gets into the leather here. Make sure that the dressing gets to the inside edge of all the leather, as well as the outside. 

NEVER USE HEAT TO DRY TACK. If your leatherwork has been soaked, say a day out in heavy rain, and then dried too rapidly, possibly with heat being used to help dry it out. It will go very brittle and could be dangerous. Keep the leatherwork in a warm room until it is dry, then put on a light covering of leather dressing. Do not put dressing on until the leather is totally dry, as that would seal any remaining damp into the leather.

To summerise, care for your tack by treating it with a good leather dressing when you first get it, wipe the leatherwork with a damp cloth or sponge after use and add more dressing when it starts to look a little dry. Rarely more than once a month once the leather is worn in, unless it has been soaked or heavily used (think endurance). I still use glycerine saddle soap to ‘finish’ a bridle when we are going somewhere. It gives a nice finish if used sparingly, but apparently this is no longer considered the right thing to do. Hey Ho. Some of my bridles are over 30 years old, so perhaps it’s not too bad!

For more information about Saddles and Saddle Fitting please visit
http://www.khsaddlery.co.uk/educational.html