The Long and Short of Stirrup Bars

There are lots of different ideas about stirrup bars - which are the bars on the saddle from which the stirrup leathers are attached. Master Saddler and Master Saddle Fitter Kay Hastilow explains more ...

For many years, the most common type of bars in use were the ones with a ‘thumb bit’ at the end (pictured), which could be ‘closed’ or ‘up’, or left down so that they continued a straight line beyond the main body of the bar. Opinions were many and varied as to which was correct, so let me run through the options.

Originally, the thumb bit was designed to be ‘closed’ or ‘up’. This was in the days when the bar laid across the leather of the flap, which had no recess for the bar and leather to sit in. The bulk of the leather and buckle could be felt through the skirts of the saddle. It was expected that the bars would be regularly cleaned and oiled, so that the thumb bit would drop down and release the leather in the case of a fall. Then came the recess for the bar, which greatly improved the comfort for the rider, but not necessarily the horse, especially as the manufacturers often turned the bars in so that there was even less bulk under the rider’s leg. Few people knew of the importance of the joint of the thumb bit to the bar being regularly cleaned and oiled, so this was rarely undertaken. Unfortunately, this usually meant that the thumb bit, usually left down put excessive pressure to a small area of the horse’s back. Small sore areas would eventually end up as white patches, and these were commonly seen when saddle fitting in days past. 

Happily, our manufacturers, led by our knowledgeable and growing army of SMS qualified saddle fitters, now turn the bars out, so that the pressure is largely removed from the horse’s sides. However, they are still recessed and this necessitates the thumb bits being down for safety, as the stirrup leather is fractionally slower to slide off in the event of a fall. Just occasionally, the bar might be turned out too much and the leather will keep coming off whilst you are riding- a very unpleasant experience. This can be corrected by a bench saddler (a craft saddler who makes and repairs saddlery). 

Often now, you will see hook bars used instead. To my mind, these are a great improvement on the bars with the thumb bit. The leathers come off easily if the rider falls, but the shape holds the leather in place whilst riding and jumping. The ends of the hooks on some designs are very slightly turned out, and, although the rider is not affected by this, there is little chance of this end causing any discomfort to the horse.

Do bear in mind that the bulk of the stirrup leather is now probably the main pressure point against the horse’s sides, so whilst choosing quality and safety in your leathers, please avoid very thick leathers purely for the horse’s comfort.

Find out more about this and much more from Kay Hastilow’s series of expert videos on

http://www.khsaddlery.co.uk/educational.html

D's on Saddles De-Mystified

Most modern saddles will come with two D’s each side at the front of the saddle. Why two? What is the difference? What should they be used for? Master Saddler and Master Saddler Fitter Kay Hastilow explains ...

The topmost D is what saddlers call a drop fall staple. This D is attached by a strong bifurcated nail which goes right through the tree of the saddle, opening out both ways on the underside of the tree. The lower D is held on with a piece of leather doubled around it, which is then stapled to the tree lower down. 

Please remember that the position of both D’s is relative to the shape of tree, flap and panel. They will be higher on a tree with short tree points, lower on a deep tree with long points. Therefore, we don’t use measurements between D’s as any form of width assessment. It could be totally different with one tree /saddle type to another. 

So, why do we need two D’s each side? Which should be used for what? The first and primary use is to attach some form of breastplate to help prevent the saddle from moving back. IT IS ESSENTIAL that such breastplates are attached to the drop fall staple, the higher one that goes right through the tree. If there is any pull at all on this, the drop fall should hold it, whereas the D on a leather wrap, which is stapled to the tree, is likely to pull out at the first hint of pressure. These latter types were originally used for attaching flasks and wire cutters whilst out hunting but, of course, most people wouldn’t have such a use for them these days. However, many carry front mounted saddle bags, spare lead ropes, hand holds and other gadgets and these D’s are ideal for this job. 

 

A word of warning. If you really need the breastplate to hold your saddle in place you would be well advised to also use added restraints in the form of cord loops, which slide onto the stirrup bar in front of the stirrup leather. The loop should line up with the drop fall staple in length, the breastplate fixing straps attached to both D and loop.  This will mean that whatever force is put onto the saddle, the straps should hold. I have seen the drop fall staples on their own pull out when a very fit, lean horse was going up a steep hill. Very unpleasant for the rider. Not very nice for the horse either!

Some saddles will have D’s at the back, behind the flap and usually on the off side. These were for sandwich cases but are nowadays used for saddle bags and other bits and bobs. Not all saddles will have them, and most that do have them on the off side only although you will occasionally see 2 on each side. These were probably put on at the client’s request at the time of making, or added for a specific use at a later date. These D’s are stapled to the tree with a wrap of leather and are therefore not very strong. 

I am enjoying writing these posts and like reading your responses. Do any of you have specific queries, or want something explained? Please let me know and, if possible I will endeavour to write a post on that topic.

Find out more information on all things Saddle Fitting from Kay Hastilow’s series of expert videos available onhttp://www.khsaddlery.co.uk/educational.html and join in the conversation on facebook

How To Revitalise Dry Tack

When buying new leatherwork, it is best (having first satisfied yourself that it all fits and you are not going to want to return it) to treat it with a good leather dressing advises Master Saddler and Master Saddle Fitter Kay Hastilow.

We do not recommend using oil now- neatsfoot was the favourite when I was younger, followed rapidly by Mars oil, but many of the dressings available now are far superior . I use Oakwood leather dressing on my own tack. Rapide is another good one, but there are many more on the market, most of which do a good job.

Take the leatherwork apart if it is a bridle or accessories and go over all of the leather with a LIGHT covering of dressing. Leave to soak in, preferably over- night, then put the items back together. Saddles, likewise give a light covering, and don’t forget to treat up under the skirts of the saddle (the flaps of leather that cover the stirrup bars) and get the dressing into all nooks and crevices. BE CAREFUL if the seat and knee pads are of suede or nubuck. You do not want to get leather dressing onto these.

Remember, a LIGHT covering, don’t smother the leather as the dressing will not soak in and the leather will become sticky and dull. A little two or three times over the space of a couple of weeks is  better than three times as much in one go.

Sometimes, your tack may have become very hard and dry. What to do?

First of all, some leather used is of very poor quality. This tends to be hard and inflexible when you buy it and stays that way no matter what you treat it with. It can be rather brittle and can break in use. Best get rid of it before you or your horse gets injured by it.

Sometimes, leatherwork of a good quality may go hard or brittle in use. This can be due to neglect- leather needs a bit of help to stay supple and if you don’t treat it occasionally with a good leather dressing it will become very hard. That means taking bridles apart, cleaning the leather thoroughly with a damp cloth or sponge and allowing to dry afterwards (best left overnight in somewhere warm, not somewhere cold and damp) and then making sure the dressing gets into all the turns, under keepers and the like. The turn on the body of a martingale for instance (the bit that the girth goes through) gets very wet and muddy, plus sweat from the horse gets into the leather here. Make sure that the dressing gets to the inside edge of all the leather, as well as the outside. 

Another reason for hard leatherwork can be if it has been soaked, say a day out in heavy rain, and then dried too rapidly, possibly with heat being used to help dry it out. NEVER USE HEAT TO DRY TACK. It will go very brittle and could be dangerous. Keep the leatherwork in a warm room until it is dry, then put on a light covering of leather dressing. Do not put dressing on until the leather is totally dry, as that would seal any remaining damp into the leather.

The best way to care for your tack is to treat it with a good leather dressing when you first get it, wipe the leatherwork with a damp cloth or sponge after use and add more dressing when it starts to look a little dry. Rarely more than once a month once the leather is worn in, unless it has been soaked or heavily used (think endurance). I still use glycerine saddle soap to ‘finish’ a bridle when we are going somewhere. It gives a nice finish if used sparingly, but apparently this is no longer considered the right thing to do. Hey Ho. Some of my bridles are over 30 years old, so perhaps it’s not too bad!

For more information on this and other subjects concerning your saddle please visit www.khsaddlery.co.uk/educational.html and join in the conversation on facebook.

Ignorance is Bliss

I have just been scrolling through a web site that advertises all things equestrian, from actual horses to lorries, services, saddlery and odds and ends. It really is fascinating and more than a little frightening says Master Saddler and Master Saddle Fitter Kay Hastilow.

Within the adverts I see many for saddles, all in ‘excellent condition and little used’, many with someone holding a tape measure across the front of the pommel. Err…. If this was done from the same place each side, it still wouldn’t tell you anything of use. In many cases the measure is from above the fixed D on one side to below it on the other. It also doesn’t show if they are intending the measurement to be the overall width of the saddle here, or to the panel or the actual tree width. Whatever, none of this will be of any help to you in any way.

Also seen in my trawl was a saddle sat squarely on a saddle horse, with the ubiquitous tape measure in place, but where the front of the panel was sewn in so unevenly that on one side the tape was above the stitch line whilst on the other, it was well below it, although the tape was horizontal.

Most frightening of all was someone who stated that whilst they were not a saddle fitter, nor a trader, they had several of their own saddles for sale and would bring them out for you to try on and ride in. For this, they would make a small charge. Firstly, although stating that they were not trading, they were prepared to consider taking your saddle in part exchange, which sounds as if they really are trading.To me though, the most awful thing was the photos of the saddles, at least 2 of which were Asian. Where the quality, symmetry and design of these is notoriously unreliable, if not downright dangerous, and of the others, the designs, make and condition looked to be very poor. I would swear that at least one of them was older than me, and that’s saying something!

Now, I know that it can be really difficult to get hold of a good saddle fitter. Some of them could, in all honesty, be better at getting back to their clients and many, certainly the good ones will be booked up for between 2 and 6 weeks, so that you might have to wait for a visit, but really, why would you even consider buying such an important item without professional help? It can take just 20 minutes to damage a horse’s back so badly that they can’t be ridden for some time, or you can totally destroy a horse’s (or rider’s) confidence if a saddle that is, not straight, badly flocked, badly designed or broken in the tree or if the saddle really doesn’t fit well, causing the horse to object in the only way that he knows by bucking, rearing or bolting.

In my many years of fitting saddles I have been called out to horses with behavioural problems and in some cases, it is nothing to do with the saddle.Sadly though, it quite often is the cause of the problem.  Some horses just don’t go as well as the rider thinks they should, or they might be really naughty, and I have derived enormous pleasure from changing a horse that has been branded as ‘bad’ into one who is happy and working well for the owner.  Often, the owner will be upset or embarrassed that they have been inflicting pain on their horse, all be it unintentionally. One must wonder though if this could have been avoided by using a good saddle fitter. 

Now I just know that someone is going to say, ‘I had a fitter out and it was never right/ the horse wasn’t happy and they wouldn’t listen,’ and they might be right. Whilst the majority of qualified fitters, especially those qualified with the Society of Master Saddlers, are thorough and conscientious, there will always be the odd visit that didn’t go as well as the fitter might have hoped, or perhaps they made an error in this case. No one is perfect after all, and if they have got it wrong they should be willing to return quickly and correct things. However, many of these cases that I have seen, the fault is that the owner hasn’t followed the advice given. ‘A return visit is recommended in 6 weeks’ means 6 weeks, not 6 months and things can really go wrong in this time. If the fitter has recommended that you use just a thin saddle cloth and you have put wadges of pads and sheepskin under the saddle, then don’t be surprised if he doesn’t go as well as he did when the saddle fitter was there. If a specific girth has been recommended and you elected to source one yourself, did you do so and quickly? Is it the right size? If it’s too small or too large, it won’t work as expected.Whilst saddle fitters are not perfect, we do need you to work with us on these matters.

Our biggest problem is that these days, with the research and design work that has been undertaken ,leading to a greater understanding on the saddle fitter’s part, is that many riders and owners are unaware that they really don’t know just how much they don’t know.

Find out more from Kay Hastilow’s series of expert videos at www.khsaddlery.co.uk/educational.html

Buying A Saddle Online

 My first reaction is - DON’T!

A properly qualified saddle fitter (who will have spent a minimum of 3 years training before qualifying if they are Society of Master Saddlers Qualified fitters), will be looking at many aspects of you, your horse and several factors within the saddle before even trying anything on to your horse. Many of these factors you will be totally unaware of.

Often, a trainer will like a particular make of saddle and recommend it to all their clients. Now the trainer may be young, male, tall, slim and athletic. Sadly, many of their clients will not tick many of these boxes.  The saddle that he finds ‘perfect’ may be totally impossible for you to ride in. Also, some trainers are given a commission on any saddle that they sell. You can’t blame them for encouraging their clients to purchase their recommended brand of saddle as it is hard enough to make a living as a trainer, but they are qualified trainers, NOT saddle fitters and the saddle that they ‘fit’ may well be totally wrong for horse and/ or rider. I’m afraid that, contrary to popular belief, being the best trainer in the world does not qualify you to fit saddles.

Another method popularly used by customers who want to buy on line is to have a saddle fitter out, get them to fit a saddle, say that they ‘will think about it’ and then go and buy it on line. Well, I think that’s rather silly. Saddles are individually made. Even the ‘mass produced’ ones are hand finished to some extent and all will fit a little bit differently. The fitter will sell you the saddle that they have fitted, or, if you need something just a little bit different, or it is a ‘bespoke’ saddle made specifically for your horse, they should come out and fit the new saddle to your horse to conclude the sale. They should also take some responsibility for it after the sale, so that if you have problems, they should sort it out for you. Many will also include a ‘free check and lift’ for the saddle after 6 to 8 weeks, when the saddle has settled. If you buy a similar saddle on line to the one you had fitted, there is no guarantee that it will be as good a fit as the one you originally tried. You will also have to pay for a call out and flock once the saddle settles, which will almost certainly cost you more than you saved by buying on line. 

There are also factors such as happened with me recently. The customer, I know, reads this post but I am sure that they will not mind me telling the tale. They have just bought a new horse and asked me to come and fit it. They wanted either a Thorowgood T8 or a Kent and Masters Compact GP. I didn’t have what was wanted, but a colleague not too far away had the required saddle. I checked the width and told them which bar to have with it. I arranged to pop back and check the fit, but was told on the morning that it wasn’t necessary as they had tried it on and it was fine. Also, they said it needed a wider bar than I had said, as it sat up too high. I insisted on coming to check and guess what! Having ridden in the saddle, it had dropped and sure enough, needed the bar that I had said. Also, having changed the bar and girthed the saddle up, the customer said “oh, You are using the back 2 straps. I used the first and third.” Now, with Thorowgood and Kent and Masters GP saddles, the first strap is a point strap. You would use this if the conformation of the horse drives the saddle forward or back, but not on most horses. The saddle had dropped low at the front and the back was lifting and hitting the rider’s bottom with every stride. With the correct bar, and using the right straps the saddle was balanced and stable. And this customer is far from being inexperienced! Sometimes, you need our expertise.

If you are looking to buy second hand saddles on line - beware! If I have fitted for someone and their old saddle is faulty, as in not straight, the panels are uneven, the flock is very poor or the tree is ‘suspect’, or even broken, many will not accept my advice to burn it to save another horse from pain or discomfort. Rather, they want to get ‘something for it’, so I tell them to sell it on ebay or gumtree. Buyer beware! Yes, you can send it back, but it’s not always just that straightforward. We hear many stories of sellers refusing to take goods back as they were damaged.  Try proving differently! 

You may buy a saddle on line and ask a fitter to come and check the fit, but I refuse to do this. Not because I want to sell one of my own saddles as many think, but rather, it is horrible to arrive at a yard to fit a saddle that the client has purchased, only to see straight away that there is no way in a month of Sundays’ that the saddle they have bought is ever going to fit their horse. Now, the fitter may have driven many miles and booked an hour or so to do your fitting. Almost certainly, if they are a good fitter, they will have a 4 to 6 week wait for a slot, but here they are knowing that the end result will not be what the client wants. Do you just say “sorry, it won’t fit” and drive away without charge, which will leave you considerably out of pocket or go through the motions of a fit and charge for it, still ending up saying that the saddle is unsuitable and still having a disgruntled customer who thinks you just want to sell one of your own saddles. In one case, I was told to “make it fit by squeezing the tree ”. Now, tree squeezers, if used properly can improve the fit of a saddle by bringing it in or out by up to one width fitting maximum, but this is only possible if the tree is of the correct shape and style for the horse in question. Also, there is always a risk that the tree can break, and who is going to take responsibility for that? In this case, the client had bought a new saddle on line, it was totally the wrong tree for the horse, apart from being extra wide when the animal needed a medium. I was roundly abused for refusing to squeeze it in. They then asked who they could go to to squeeze the tree, having chosen to ignore the fact that you can’t squeeze a tree in by that much. 

You can see why now I just say “sorry, no”. Perhaps if you have had this response from a saddle fitter in the past, you might now understand why. 

Find out more from Kay Hastilow’s series of expert videos available online - visit www.khsaddlery.co.uk/educational.html